Home | Garden Center | Contractor Center | Plants | Water Gardening | Mulch / Soils | Natural Stone | Pavers & Walls | Pottery / Statuary | Seed / Sod

Plants: Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental Grasses, which include both true grasses and grass-like plants, are extremely useful as groundcover's, specimens and in combination with other plants. They add color, contrast and dimension to a landscape. Many sun and shade tolerant cultivars in a variety of sizes are available.

New Introductions for 2008
	Gold Bar Miscanthus sinensis Gold Bar Height: 3-5’      Spread: 2-3’          Flower: Occasional yellow blotches across its leaves Foliage: Elegant burgundy plumes top the foliage in October Exposure: Full Sun

Past Introductions
	Avalanche Feather Reed Grass Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Avalanche’ Height: 3-4’      Spread: 1-2’          Flower: Pinkish plume-like, July Foliage: Narrow upright , dark green with white center stripe Exposure: Sun/part shade		Dallas Blues Tall Switch Grass Panicum virgatum ‘Dallas Blues’ Height: 6-8’      Spread: 2-3’ Flower: Mauve, late summer Foliage: Silver Exposure: Sun/ part shade
	Northwind Tall Switch Grass Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’ Height: 5-6’ Spread: 1-2’ Flower: Narrow plumes, August, September Foliage: Thick upright, steel-blue Exposure: Sun/ part shade, drought tolerant		Ruby Ribbons Tall Switch Grass Panicum virgatum ‘Ruby Ribbons’  Height: 4-5’ Spread: 2-3’ Flower: Airy red, August Foliage: Blue with red overtones Exposure: Full sun A UCONN Introduction

Understanding Ornamental Grasses

With the popularity of ornamental grasses and their use in the landscape, it is a good idea to understand how these plants grow. This understanding will lead to better use of these plants and often avoid disappointment or frustration. Grasses respond and start to grow based upon temperature. Some grasses will start to grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool and others will wait until the soil is warm and temperatures are more stable.

Cool Season Grasses

Cool season grass will start to grow early in the spring and may even remain semi-evergreen over the winter. Cool season grasses also seem to do better and have better foliage quality when temperatures are cool or if they are given sufficient water during drought periods. If they are not watered during drought, they tend to go dormant resulting in brown foliage. These grasses may require more frequent division to keep them healthy looking and vigorous. If not, they tend to die out in the center. For the ones that remain semi-evergreen, you should only cut off the brown or winter injured foliage in the spring. Some of the more popular cool season grasses include, Fescue's, Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon), Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia), and Autumn Moor Grass (Sesleria).

Warm Season Grasses

Warm season grasses will do better during warmer times of the year and remain good looking even when temperatures are high and moisture is limited. Warm season grasses do not begin to show growth until the weather becomes stable and the soils warm. The previous seasons growth usually browns out in the fall requiring the cutting back of plants to about 4-6 inches in the spring. Warm season grasses usually do not require as frequent division as cool season grasses. Some warm season grasses include Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium), Japanese Silver Grass (Miscanthus sp.), Hardy Pampas Grass (Erianthus), Perennial Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), Switch Grass (Panicum) and Prairie Cord Grass (Spartina).

Growth Habits

Before planting you should also understand the growth habit of the grass. Grasses can be either clump forming or rhizome forming. The latter is often called "running" grass. The clump forming grasses will grow in very neat mounds or clumps. These grasses tend to mix very well with other perennials and will not become invasive. They will increase in width slowly over time. The rhizome forming grasses spread by underground stems and can become very aggressive and invasive. These grasses have their place but it may not be in a well tended perennial border since they can soon take over an entire area. Before selecting a grass, be sure to understand how it grows so you won’t be planting a future problem. Some attractive but aggressive grasses include Blue Lymegrass, Cordgrass, and Ribbongrass.

How to Plant

As with any other perennial, success depends greatly on soil preparation before planting and having good drainage. Ideally, incorporating organic matter, such as compost, will help develop a healthier plant. Ornamental grasses do not require high amounts of fertilizer. Healthy Start Fertilizer would work well when installing any plants in your garden.

Ornamental grasses can be planted anytime of the year. We have a great selection throughout the whole season. When planting in late fall it is recommended that you mulch heavier during that first winter to prevent root damage. Plants should be planted no deeper than their previous growing depths and should be well watered after planting. Maintaining uniform soil moisture around the plant hastens establishment. Plants planted too deep tend to develop root diseases or simply rot in the ground.

Care & Maintenance of Ornamental Grasses

Fertilizer

Ornamental grasses require relatively low levels of fertility. We sell Espoma Plant Tone or 5-10-5; both are excellent fertilizers and will encourage more growth and blooms. Having a soil high in organic matter will allow for better growth and absorption of those nutrients. Fertilize once in spring and again in the fall.

Water

Plants should be well watered the first season after planting so they can develop a good root system. Established plants do not need regular watering, but may need supplemental watering during drought periods. The amount of water will depend on the grass species, the site, and on the quality, size and growth rate desired.

Weed Control

Cultivate around grass plants to control weeds. Application of mulch will greatly reduce the need for cultivation as well as watering. It also tends to keep grasses in check that have a tendency to be heavy reseeding types.

Winter Protection and Spring Clean up

Grasses do not need to be cut down before winter. In fact, they are attractive when left standing and the foliage helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Cut back the foliage to about 4-6 inches in the spring before growth resumes. When foliage is removed, spring growth will begin earlier. Old foliage left on the plant can delay the crown’s warming and subsequent growth by as much as 3 weeks.

Division

Division depends on the spacing and visual appearance of the plants as well as the overall health. Plants suffering from die-out in the center should be divided to improve appearances. Division is done in the spring before growth resumes or in the late summer or fall after the growing season. Plants that bloom late could be divided in the spring

Return to top

How to use our Wish List
Please note: We only ship
to the New England Area.

Northeast Nursery

Home Links Careers Contact Us Site Map

Alternative Fuels

Firewood Wood Pellets Pres-to-Logs

Soil pH Testing

Plant & Lawn Care

Planting Instructions Lawn Care

Plant Search

Advanced Search Search All

Mailing List and Green Thumb Club

Email: What is the Green Thumb Club?